Latvia has been proud of its fishing industry since ancient times. People in coastal settlements have long smoked, salted and dried caught fish for their own consumption, while trade was strongly limited by the short shelf life of such products. By the 60s of the 19th century, increased urban population density gave rise to the need for an inexpensive product with an extended shelf life. According to historical evidence, the first canning factories began to appear in Riga and Jelgava in the 80s of the 19th century. [1]
Production of canned fish in Riga started in 1884; the Gögginger partnership was the first factory later followed by Mortensen, Blüfeld, Bargisen, and Danielsen factories. At first, the Gögginger partnership produced only Norwegian sardines and “pickled sprats” according to the Revel or Scandinavian recipe which was mainly supplied to the Imperial Russia’s market under the “Reval Sprat” brand name and to the Scandinavian market – under the “Anchovies” brand name. [2].
A little later, Danielsen and Mortensen, merchants from Denmark and Norway, came up with the idea of preserving smoked sprats à la the famous French sardines by preserving them in oil. Until then, sprats had been consumed within a limited time frame after being prepared on the shore or in Riga where they were distributed through the central market. [3].
The best olive oil from France was ordered, and Latvian sprats were cooked accordingly. However, the first attempts proved to be unsuccessful [3].As it turned out, olive oil was not suitable for the cooking of smoked fish, including smoked sprats. The smoky flavour of the smoked sprat in olive oil typical for herring caused an unpleasant aftertaste as a result of which people did not want to buy the product in bulk. Apart from that, olive oil, once opened, deteriorated quickly.
The Gögginger partnership and the Administration of the Carnikava Manor in Carnikava engaged in fish processing had found a solution, i.e. sesame seed oil which, half-mixed with mustard oil, was recognized as the best oil for cooking smoked sprats: it thickened at a temperature of 15 degrees and ensured a long shelf life. Approximately in 1890, in Riga, at 76 Terbatas Street, Mortensen started producing "Sprats in oil" the recipe of which was as close as possible to that of the modern Latvian sprats. [1].
The product was a success, while choosing its name was a hassle. The product, at first, was offered as "Russian sardines" causing bewilderment among merchants in Moscow because, having ordered "Russian sardines", they expected to get a product similar to French sardines. The merchants found that to be a cheap fake and drove out of their stores any agent daring to offer such a product to them. A different approach had to be found as a good product could not be just wasted. In the long run, “Russian sardines” were renamed into German “sprats” (Sprotten). [3].
The demand for Latvian sprats gradually increased every year, and new canning factories were opened. If, in 1903, 10 factories in Riga and Jelgava produced about 2,250,000 cans of which about 10% were smoked sprats and the rest – pickled "Reval" sprats; by 1914, in Riga and Jelgava there were already 20 factories producing smoked sprats and about the same number of factories producing pickled ("Reval") sprats. However, in terms of volume, canned smoked sprats were produced two times more than sprats (5,900,000 cans of smoked sprats each weighing 350 g versus 3,200,000 cans of sprats each weighing 350 g) [2]. If earlier canned food was only served in restaurants and hotels, at the time people could also enjoy it at home as it could be cooked quickly and easily. [1], [3].
[1] П. Г. Борисовъ, Рыбный промыселъ в Рижскомъ уѣздѣ Лифляндской губернии / П. Борисов. С.-Петербургъ: типКиршбаума, 1913.
[2] Б. А. Гейнеман, Рыболовство на Балтійскомъ морѣ у русскихъ береговъ: отчетъ Министерству Землѣделія и Государственныхъ Имуществъ Б.А. Гейнемана. С-Петербургъ: МЗи ГИДепартаментъ земледѣлія, 1904.
[3] "Druskas iz reņģu un ķilavu - brētliņu vēstures," Latvijas Tirgotājs, Nr.5-6, Jan. 05, 1927. Accessed: Jan. 18, 2021. [Online]. Available: http://periodika.lv/#searchResults:%23Druskas%20iz%20re%C5%86%C4%A3u%20un%20%C4%B7ilavu%20-%20br%C4%93tli%C5%86u%20v%C4%93stures
[2] Б. А. Гейнеман, Рыболовство на Балтійскомъ морѣ у русскихъ береговъ: отчетъ Министерству Землѣделія и Государственныхъ Имуществъ Б.А. Гейнемана. С-Петербургъ: МЗи ГИДепартаментъ земледѣлія, 1904.
[3] "Druskas iz reņģu un ķilavu - brētliņu vēstures," Latvijas Tirgotājs, Nr.5-6, Jan. 05, 1927. Accessed: Jan. 18, 2021. [Online]. Available: http://periodika.lv/#searchResults:%23Druskas%20iz%20re%C5%86%C4%A3u%20un%20%C4%B7ilavu%20-%20br%C4%93tli%C5%86u%20v%C4%93stures
